Shillong: The Most Vibrant City Of North East India

Shillong wasn’t introduced to me as Scotland of The East. For me, it was just a popular hill station in Meghalaya and also the state capital. When I was in the college, one of my schoolmate was enrolled at the Institute of Hotel Management (IHM) in Shillong. He used to tell us the stories from a fashionable city and its gorgeous girls. Since then I wanted to visit the most beautiful hill station in North East India.

Years later, I get an opportunity to visit Guwahati on a four-days official trip. Since Shillong is only 100 km away from Guwahati, it was a natural temptation to be there for a day. However, the things didn’t move as planned and I couldn’t reach Shillong. It was extremely disappointing.

Fortunately, that was not an end. The destiny brought me back to Guwahati. It was not an official trip for few days only but for three years at least. It was opening of another chapter in life. I was relocating to Guwahati, the gateway to the North East India. I was sure about one thing while relocationg- in the next three years, explore each and every corner of the untouched North East India. However, Shillong was still a priority.

Then it happened. I reached Shillong, roamed in the street, enjoyed the local cuisines (but I don’t eat Pork) and visited its tourist attractions. It was a big disappointment at all. There was nothing extraordinary. I planned four days stay, but returned in two days only. A big question was still in the mind; why does Shillong consider as Scotland of The East? What is so special about it? I haven’t been to Scotland. But, I kept visiting Shillong. It took me at least eight to ten visits to get the answers.

1. First Impression of Shillong: A Big Disappointment

It had been a month since my arrival (since May) in Guwahati. There was a continuos urge to visit Shillong as soon as possible. But there was a small problem. My family was yet to join me and I couldn’t dare to enter in Shillong without the home minister (my wife). However, the urge to visit Meghalaya was so stronger I couldn’t resist it more. I negotiated a peaceful agreement with my wife and went to Jowai in the Jaintia Hills. I dropped Shillong for another time. What the irony it was! I couldn’t visit Shillong during my maiden trip to Guwahati three years back despite a deep desire. Three years later, when I got a chance to visit Meghalaya, I started with Jowai instead of the customary Shillong-Sohra circuit. After two months, my family united with me in the month of July, and a plan was set for the trip.

One day, in the month of August, we commenced our journey from Guwahati. We reached ISBT in Guwahati to travel by a bus to Shillong and found there was no direct bus available. We waited for one hour and finally boarded a bus going to Agartala. It was supposed to drop us in Shillong. We learnt our lesson that from the next time onwards while going to Shillong, it is better to board a shared vehicle at Khanapara or Paltan Bazar rather than ISBT Guwahati.

Since, it was the monsoon season, a pleasant green cover was everywhere along the Guwahati-Shillong Road. The hilly road was soaked in the rain, mist was rising in the valleys and clouds were hanging over the hills. The smooth well maintained National Highway offered a great picture opportunity at every twist and turn. I didn’t enjoy my motorcycle trip on the same highway two months ago during the dry season, when there is a pale cover everywhere on the landscape.

About four hours after starting our bus journey from Guwahati, we were passing by the Umiam Lake. How many cities in India can boast of such a big and magnificent lake? I think there would be hardly 8-10 cities in the country where a lake spreads its beauty with full grandeur. I have seen such lakes in Srinagar, Udaipur, Hyderabad and Bhopal.

From the beginning of the lake towards the city, our bus moved gradually on an upward slope. The road was covered with pine trees from both the sides. The scenic vista of Umiam Lake and rolling hills was filled with a beautiful sea of clouds. It was raining heavily on the road, and the bus was chugging towards the city. The entire atmosphere was mystic and soothing. Shillong was so refreshing.

Most of the cars, jeeps and buses plying from Guwahati to Shillong unload their passengers at Police Bazaar in the heart of the city. Long-distance buses transport their passengers to Dhankheti. Our bus was also going to Agartala, so we left that bus at Dhankheti. Fortunately, our guest house was also in Dhankheti, so we did not find any difficulty.

For the next two days, we strolled around different tourist places in Shillong. We kept us entertained with many activities like walking in the Lady Hydari Park, boating in the Ward’s Lake and shopping at the Police Bazaar. We visited Elephanta Falls, Golf Links and Umiam Lake. However, we couldn’t admire the panoramic view of the city from the Shillong Peak as the sky was completely obscured by the clouds.

After roaming for two days in the city, we found Shillong very disappointing. The city was definitely fashionable, and the local people were charming, but it was not like a vibrant one. The true ethos of a hill station was nowhere, and it was highly commercialized. We cancelled the rest of our bookings and returned to Guwahati. I waited for three years to reach Shillong and its first look did not impress me at all.

2. In Love With Shillong

Boring experiences of my first visit and the expensive hotel prices kept me away from Shillong for the next few months. After settling down a little in Guwahati, I started visiting Shillong repeatedly. I didn’t follow the typical tourist routes and never planned anything. Sometimes I only went up to Umiam Lake and then took a diversion towards Barapani Airport. I approached the city from the airport side passing through the various villages where tourists don’t go normally.

Sometimes, I started in the early morning from Guwahati to quietly pass through the city while admiring the beauty of Umiam Lake. Sometimes, I approached the city from Tura Highway, while reaching Mairang through a less travelled road from Guwahati. After various visits, I realised that yes, I missed many amusing activities in Shillong during the first trip. That was the reason for my initial disappointment.

The day also arrived when I started appreciating the changing colours of Umiam Lake from dusk to dawn, the panoramic view of the city from Shillong Peak, Sunday walk through Police Bazaar without honking traffic, the beauty of Golf Links etc. Jalebi and Ice Cream from Police Bazaar became a routine delight. The chronicles of World War II, the stories of vintage Willy Jeeps and the history of a significant military base, Shillong felt absolutely seductive. As I got to know the city more closely, I keep admiring the way a tribal area turned into the fashionable city. It was amusing to experience the passion for Western Music in the local youths.

Gradually, I recognized it as the most vibrant city in North East India. Now, there is no doubt that I embrace this city, the charming crowd, the refreshing breeze of Ward’s Lake, the birds chirping in Lady Hydari Park, the colours of Umiam Lake and the fashionable youths rocking the musical arena. Shillong is just a fascination.

I acknowledge that the beauty of Shillong lies in its crowd, the disciplined traffic lining up in the streets, the excitement of the young men and women while boating in the Wards Lake, the people roaming around and enjoying the window shopping, the small children jumping with the joy in the Lady Hyadri Park; fashion, music and history are other supplementary ingredients. I understand that the beauty of Shillong lies in the everlasting charm of Umiam Lake, the engulfing mist over the hills and the sudden downpour in the city. Shillong, Scotland of The East, the most vibrant city of North East India.

3. Places to Visit in Shillong

Elephant Falls

Elephant Falls is the most prominent attraction of Shillong. It is located on the outskirts of Shillong Cantt, about 12 km from the city centre, on the way to Cherrapunji. Being close to the city, it stays cramped with the tourists. It is a three-steps waterfall cascading down at three levels. The first level is visible soon after descending few steps from the parking area. I find it more charming than the rest of the levels. After descending few more steps, the second level of the waterfall appears, which does not look exciting.

Further down on the steps, you reach to the base of the waterfall. This is the third level of the waterfall and simply mesmerizing. You can step inside the pool in front of the waterfall. Bathing is not allowed anywhere. It is believed that there was a massive rock at the base of the waterfall looked like an elephant, the reason behind the name Elephant Falls. The rock was disintegrated in the earthquake of 1897.

There are lot of shops outside the ticket window, where you can buy local stuffs, handcrafts, souvenirs etc. Many shops are also there selling food items and beverages. You can rent traditional Khasi Attire from one shop adjacent to the ticket counter and get your photos clicked by your camera.

Opening Hours: 10.00 AM to 06.00 PM daily (There is no use to go after 05.00 PM in Winter).

Entry Fee: Rs 20 per person, Rs 20 for mobile or digital camera.

Parking Facility: Available on the payment basis. Rs 20 per vehicle.

Public Transport: Taxis running from Shillong towards Mylliem drop 300-400 m away from Elephant Falls on the main road. After visiting the waterfall, you can again get a shared taxi from the main road.

Shillong Peak

Shillong Peak is the highest peak of Meghalaya at the height of 1525 m. It offers a spectacular panoramic view of Shillong City. The photography is allowed near the view point, but other than that photography is strictly prohibited in Shillong Peak area.

There are a few shops located near the view point which sell snacks and beverages. Also, there is a shop in which you can rent traditional Khasi attire for Rs 50 per person and get your photos clicked by your own camera.

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Apart from the view point, all other areas of the peak is highly restrictive. Shillong is the headquarter of Eastern Air Command of the Indian Air Force. Air force maintains highly sensitive radars and equipment in the area around Shillong Peak to keep our sky safe from the potential intruders.

There is a security check post about 2 km before the view point. You have to get a permission from the security personnel by showing your driving license and the registration certificate of your car. The security staff deposits the driving license while providing you the clearance. You can get back your driving license after returning from the view point.

If you travel by a public transport, expect to walk for one and half km to reach the view point after getting the security clearance. Also, a foggy weather or low clouds may ruin your trip and you may not appreciate the obscured view of the city. Therefore, it is advisable to visit Shillong Peak only during a clear sunny day.

Opening Hours: 09.00 AM to 03.30 PM

Entry Fee: Free.

Parking Facility: Available Free of Cost.

Public Transport: The shared taxis from Shillong to Mylliem drop off on the main road leading to Shillong Peak, about 7 km before the peak. During the tourist season, you may get a shared taxi from the starting point of the Shillong Peak Road. During the off-season, the frequency of shared vehicles may get decrease. A shared vehicle would drop you at the security check post, and you are supposed to walk for one and half km from that post to reach the view point.

You may also walk on the Rhododendron Trekking Trail to reach Shillong Peak in two hours from the main road. While proceeding on the main road towards Shillong Cantt, you will notice the big sign board indicating starting point of the Rhododendron Trek.

Note: If you check on the Google Map, you may find another route to Shillong Peak starting from Laitkor. Please note that the ordinary citizens are not allowed to enter in Air Force area and the view point, if they approach from Laitkor side. It’s better to proceed from the main road (Shillong-Mylliem Road).

Umiam Lake

This magnificent lake is located along the main road from Shillong to Guwahati, about 12-13 km from Police Bazaar. This is equally famous as Barapani Lake. For the proper view of the lake, you may go to any of the view-points stretch in an area of about 5 km along the main road. There are at least five view points, but one near the Toyota or Mahindra Showroom and another one at Orchid Lake Resort is good to enjoy the breathtaking scenery. Many shops are there at the view points selling noodles, biscuits, chips, tea, coffees, corn etc.

Orchid Lake Resort is a nice place to admire the beauty of Umiam Lake while enjoying the lunch.Boating facility is also available once you descend from the Orchid Lake Resort towards the edge of the lake.

Opening hours: Sunrise to Sunset

Entry Fee: Free

Parking Facility: Available Free of Cost.

Public Transport: Many shared taxis and buses run from the city to the lower part of Umiam Lake. Since it is located on the main road from Shillong to Guwahati, therefore public transport is easily available.

Ward’s Lake

This beautiful lake situated just one km away from the Police Bazaar. The entire area is covered with the lawns, the gardens, a restaurant and the lake itself. It is a very nice place to enjoy boating followed by a decent meal at the lake restaurant. A wooden bridge over the lake makes it more spectacular.

Opening Hours: 08.30 AM to 06.30 PM in Summer (March to October). 08.30 AM to 04.30 PM in Winter (November to February). On Saturday and Sunday, the entrance of the lake is closed half an hour late in the evening. Entry is closed on Tuesdays.

Entry Fee: Adult Rs 10 per person and children Rs 5. Divyang Rs 5 and senior citizens Rs 5 per person. Rs 20 for digital camera. Handycam Rs 100 and professional video camera Rs 200. Boating 25 minutes (2-seater boat Rs 50 and 4-seater boat Rs 100). Boating 45 minutes (2 seater boat Rs 80 and 4 seater boat Rs 160).

Parking Facility: Available outside on a narrow road. Better to avoid. Leave your vehicle at your hotel and use public/hired transport.

Lady Hydari Park

Named after the wife of the first British Governor of undivided Assam, the park is spread over a vast area behind the Civil Hospital in Shillong. There are many species of flowers in this park. A children play area is also there with many swings, merry go rounds, slides, scramblers, etc. In another corner, you can observe many birds playing in the water. It is an enjoyable place to spend quality time in a peaceful manner with family and children away from the congestion of the city.

Opening Hours: 08.00 AM to 05.00 PM. The park remains closed on Mondays.

Entry Fee: Adult Rs 10 per person and children Rs 5. Divyang Rs 5 and senior citizens Rs 5 per person. Rs 10 for digital camera. Rs 50 for handycam and Rs 100 for professional video camera.

Parking Facility: Available but highly congested area. Better to avoid. Leave your vehicle at your hotel and use public/hired transport.

Golf Links

On the outskirts of the city, it doesn’t look like a part of the congested city like Shillong. It is quiet, clean and well-maintained area with lush-green surroundings. You can just walk through the beautiful golf course or try your hand on a golf stick. It is frequently used by the local people for the picnic, yoga and jogging activities.

Entry Fee: Free unless you want to try Golf.

Parking Facility: Available Free of Cost.

Police Bazaar

Police Bazaar is considered as the heart of Shillong. It’s a bustling marketplace with heavy rush of the people and vehicles cramming with each other. Most of the hotels are also located in this area. It is the best market in Shillong for the shopping of local stuffs, souvenirs, cloths and electronics items. Many restaurants and road-side food stalls are also there to suppress your appetite.

Parking Facility: Available but highly congested area. Better to avoid. Leave your vehicle at your hotel and use public/hired transport.

State Museum

The Government Museum of Meghalaya is now known as Captain Williamson Sangma State Museum. Built in the year 1975, the museum has an excellent collection of handicrafts, art, customs, domestic items, furnishing ornaments, traditional utensils, clothing and conventional weapons of the local tribes. There is also a branch of the State Museum at Tura.

Opening Hours: 10.00 AM to 04.00 PM. The museum is closed on Saturdays and Sundays.

Entry Fee: Adult Rs 5 per person and children Rs 2. Student Rs 3. Mobile camera Rs 10. Video camera Rs 100.

Butterfly Museum

There is also a Butterfly Museum in Shillong, which has a unique collection of colorful butterflies, moths, beetles, etc. This unique collection of butterflies boasts colorful species from all over the world, although most of the species are from Meghalaya.The Butterfly Museum is also known as the Wankhar Entomology Museum. Shortly after crossing the tri-junction of Mawprem on the road from Shillong to Guwahati, there is a board place by of Meghalaya Tourism to show the way to the Butterfly Museum. Located inside a private property, this museum is actually a personal collection made by the family members.

Since this is a private property, there is no formality like a museum. You are supposed to ring the bell, and it depends on the mood of the landlord or the landlady whether they would like to show you the collection or not.

Opening Hours: 10.00 AM to 04.30 PM Monday to Friday. 10.30 AM to 01.00 PM on Saturday. The museum is closed on Sundays.

Entry Fee: Indian citizen Rs 50 per person. Foreign citizens Rs 100 per person. Rs 10 rupees for every photo captured with mobile or digital camera.

Parking Facility: Available nearby. Free of cost.

Other Tourist Attractions

Rhino Museum of the Indian Army, Lush-green campus of the North-Eastern Hill University, Don Bosco Museum, All Saints Church, Air Force Museum, Cathedral of Mary Help of Christians, Sweet Falls, etc. are the other tourist places in Shillong. Apart from all this, there are few more attractions like Laitlum Canyon and Mawphlang Sacred Grooves, located at a reasonable distance from the city of Shillong.

Cherrapunji (Sohra) , the major tourist destination of Meghalaya, is just 53 km from Shillong. Dawki, another significant tourist destination, is just 80 km away. The David Scott Trail Trek can be done in one day from Shillong, and the Bamboo Trail Trek is possible half a day time. I will write about all these destinations in detail one by one in the separate posts.

4. How to Reach Shillong?

The best way to reach Shillong is to travel via Guwahati, the capital of Assam. There is one airport in Shillong, approx 30 km away. Air India and IndiGo each operate a flight from Kolkata.

For detail information about the various modes of transportation available to reach Shillong, please read this post:

5. Public Transport in Shillong

An efficient network of public transport exists in Shillong in the form of the public buses and the shared taxis. Urban buses are available for almost every tourist spot. They are easily available to major areas of Shillong like Iewduh, Police Bazaar, Dhankheti, Laitkor, Golf Link, NEHU etc.

It is more convenient to use shared cars than the buses to move around Shillong. Painted in black and yellow, these cars run frequently in Shillong. You can halt any black-yellow car from the roadside by waiving your hands. They typically charge Rs 10-20 per person to travel within the city limits. You can also hire them to travel independently.

Note: Most of the shops in Shillong stay closed on Sundays. There may be very few vehicles on the road. But the city doesn’t stop at all, at least not like Aizawl in Mizoram or Kohima in Nagaland. Many shops stay closed in the Police Bazaar on Sundays, but food joints and restaurants stay alive. A sizeable crowd of vendors dominate the street selling jackets, clothes, shoes and footwear on the Sundays.

6. Accommodation in Shillong

Shillong has a sufficient number of hotels, guest houses and home-stays for night stay. Their rental rates are marginally higher in comparison to the other parts of India. Most of the hotels are located in the vicinity of Police Bazaar and Bada Bazaar. These are the busiest area of the ​city, so living in a populous place may look like a terrible choice. But, if you stay at a hotel in the Police Bazaar area, you may get easy transport to any other place.

There are many hotels and home-stays in Mylliem located on the outskirts of the city on the way to Cherrapunji. Similarly, hotels and home-stays are also based in Laitkor, en route to Laitlum Canyon. It would be better to stay in Mylliem or Laitkor only if you travel by your own vehicle, otherwise you have to come to the city to get a transport every time to visit other places of interest.

If you want to enjoy the unspoiled beauty of Umiam Lake, Orchid Lake Resort is an excellent option to stay. Since Shillong Peak is a sensitive area, there is no option to stay there. Elephanta Falls does not have the option of for night stay but Mylliem is just two km beyond Elephana Falls where you can get plenty of options.

Apart from all this, there are many hostels (Youth Hostels, Isabella Hostels, Aurobindo Hostels etc.) in Shillong, most of which are located around Police Bazaar. Dormitory facility is available in such hostels at the rate of Rs 250 – 500 per night. They can be an attractive option for the solo travellers.